20 Best Places to Eat in Puglia: A Must for Food Lovers

Puglia, the sun-kissed region of southern Italy, is a place food lovers keep going back to. Its cuisine reflects the area's rich agricultural bounty, pristine coastlines, and centuries-old traditions. From family-run trattorias serving handmade pasta to Michelin-starred establishments redefining regional flavours, Puglia offers a feast for every palate. Here's your guide to the best places to eat in Puglia, featuring detailed descriptions of must-visit spots, their specialities, and what makes each unique.

Robin
Robin · Europe
18 min read · Updated 2026-08-30
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Freshly made beetroot orecchiette pasta drying outdoors in Apulia, Italy.
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The best restaurants in Puglia at a glance

If you only read one section, read this one. Puglia runs 400km from the Gargano headland to the tip of the Salento, so the honest answer to "where should I eat in Puglia" is "which part of Puglia are you in". Here is the whole list, grouped by town, with the one line that tells you whether it is your kind of place.

Polignano a Mare and the Adriatic coast

  • Grotta Palazzese: dinner inside a sea cave, the most photographed table in the region
  • Da Tuccino: raw Adriatic seafood done seriously, about €100 a head
  • Trattoria Il Grottone: sea views without the cave-restaurant bill
  • La Barca: a small seafood trattoria near Lama Monachile, though we could not confirm it currently trades
  • Pasha: one Michelin star, and it moved here from Conversano in 2025

The Valle d'Itria (Ostuni, Ceglie Messapica, Alberobello, Locorotondo)

  • Osteria del Tempo Perso: a cave dining room in Ostuni's old town, Puglian classics
  • Cibus: a cellar in Ceglie with its own cheese cave, and dishes almost nobody still cooks
  • Al Fornello da Ricci: the long-starred Ceglie kitchen, still family run
  • L'Aratro: dinner inside a trullo in Alberobello
  • Bina Ristorante di Puglia: in Locorotondo, not Savelletri as we previously had it
  • Trattoria Il Borgo Antico: Locorotondo rustic cooking, unconfirmed at present
  • Due Camini: the Michelin-starred room at Borgo Egnazia, open to non-residents

The Salento (Lecce, Gallipoli, Otranto)

  • La Puritate: Gallipoli seafood in the old town, €46-65 a head
  • Le Macare: Salento home cooking near Gallipoli, at Salento prices
  • Ristorante Alba Chiara: Otranto seafront seafood, unconfirmed at present
  • Ristorante Pugliese: Lecce, unconfirmed at present
  • La Cucina di Mamma Elvira: the Lecce answer we could actually verify, €20-40
  • Caffè Alvino: the pasticciotto on Lecce's main square, and the best €2 in Puglia

The Gargano and the north coast (Peschici, Trani, Andria, Monopoli, San Vito)

  • Trabucco da Mimì: a table on a working fishing platform, summer only
  • Ristorante Porta di Basso: a cliff-edge dining room above the Adriatic in Peschici
  • Le Lampare al Fortino: inside a 14th-century fort on Trani harbour
  • Quintessenza: a Michelin star in Trani, a few streets from where the fish lands
  • Antichi Sapori: farm-to-table in Montegrosso, one of the originals
  • Locanda di Nonna Mena: San Vito dei Normanni home cooking, €35-45
  • Osteria Sant'Anna: Monopoli, unconfirmed at present

If you want the single most Puglian meal on this page and money is not the deciding factor, it is Antichi Sapori in Montegrosso: handmade pasta with wild herbs and lamb baked in clay, from a kitchen that was doing farm-to-table here long before the phrase existed. If money is the deciding factor, it is Le Macare near Gallipoli, where the room is local, the menu is not translated, and the orecchiette con cime di rapa is the version everything else is copying.

About the addresses and prices below. Every venue on this page was re-checked live in August 2026. Where we could confirm an address, it is printed. Where the address we published in 2024 turned out to be wrong, it has been corrected. Where we could not confirm one at all, there is no address rather than an old one, and the entry says so. Same rule for prices: only four are printed, because only four could be sourced. Everything else you should check on the venue's own site before you drive an hour for dinner.

What to eat in Puglia before you pick a restaurant

Breathtaking aerial view of olive groves stretching across the countryside of Fasano, Puglia, Italy at sunrise.
Photo by K via Pexels

Puglia's food is farm food that happens to sit on a coast, and knowing five things by name makes every menu on this page readable.

Orecchiette are the regional pasta, little ear-shaped discs still made by hand in the street in Bari. Via Arco Basso in the old town is where women shape them in public, on tables outside their own front doors. The canonical order is orecchiette con cime di rapa, with turnip tops, garlic and anchovy. If a menu in the Valle d'Itria offers it, order it.

Burrata is from here, specifically from Andria. It is mozzarella wrapped around cream and shreds of curd, and it is eaten within a day, which is the entire reason it tastes different in Puglia than it does at home.

Focaccia barese is thick, oily and topped with tomato and olives, and it is a breakfast as readily as a lunch. Panzerotti are the fried, folded, tomato-and-mozzarella version of the same instinct.

Pasticciotto is Salento's own pastry: a small shortcrust shell filled with custard, eaten warm, standing at the counter. In Lecce the place to do it is Caffè Alvino on Piazza Sant'Oronzo, with a caffè leccese beside it, which is espresso poured over ice and almond milk and is a local order rather than a tourist one.

And the wine is Primitivo and Negroamaro, both red, both from the Salento, both cheap at source in a way they are not anywhere else.

The olive oil deserves its own line. Puglia produces a very large share of Italy's total, and the landscape between the towns is olive groves for hours at a stretch. Some of those groves are dead or dying: Xylella fastidiosa has killed on the order of 21 million trees across the south of the region since 2013, and the drive down into the Salento passes through it. Buying oil at a mill here is not a souvenir errand, it is the point.

Travellers who plan a Puglia trip with Stippl start about 113 days ahead, roughly six weeks earlier than the Italian average. That is the longest lead time of any destination in the country in our data, and it is worth knowing before you assume a table will be free. It also tells you something about the trip itself: people who plan Puglia by its towns rather than as one region average 4.62 stops and 5.68 nights, so this is a list you eat your way along, not a list you pick one from.

Where to eat in Puglia, town by town

Nine of the towns on this page are stops on our two-week Puglia itinerary, which is not a coincidence: the route exists because those towns are where the eating is.

  • Polignano a Mare is the highest concentration on this list, with five entries inside one small cliff town. It is also 30 minutes from Bari airport, which makes it the easiest first or last night of a trip.
  • Ceglie Messapica is the surprise. A town of 20,000 people inland from Ostuni holds two of the region's most serious kitchens, Cibus and Al Fornello da Ricci, and locals drive there from across the province.
  • Lecce is where you eat cheaply and well, and where the pastry matters more than the restaurants.
  • Trani punches far above its size: a Michelin star at Quintessenza and a dining room inside a 14th-century fort, both within a few minutes of the cathedral on the water.
  • Peschici and the Gargano are a separate trip, two and a half hours north of Bari, and the two entries there are both about the setting as much as the plate.

If you are pairing dinners with swimming, the coastal entries line up neatly with our guide to the best beaches in Puglia: La Barca and Il Grottone are a few minutes from Cala Porto in Polignano, and La Puritate and Le Macare sit on the Ionian side near Gallipoli.

The 20 best places to eat in Puglia

1. Grotta Palazzese (Polignano a Mare)

A world-renowned restaurant carved into a limestone cave overlooking the Adriatic Sea. The natural setting creates a memorable atmosphere, with waves lapping against the rocks as you dine. Specialities: Seafood tasting menus, burrata with anchovies, and lobster linguine. Vibe: Romantic and luxurious, ideal for a once-in-a-lifetime dining experience. Address: Via Narciso, 59, Polignano a Mare, BA. Checked August 2026: confirmed operating, address correct, booking open on the venue's own site. Prices are not published here because we could not source a current one.

2. Osteria del Tempo Perso (Ostuni)

Located in a centuries-old cave, this osteria blends rustic charm with elegant touches. The restaurant is renowned for its dedication to traditional Puglian flavours, served in an intimate and welcoming setting. Specialities: Orecchiette with tomato and ricotta forte, grilled lamb, and stuffed aubergine. Vibe: Warm and inviting, popular with both locals and visitors after cooking that has not been softened for anyone. Address: Via Gaetano Tanzarella Vitale, 47, Ostuni, BR. Checked August 2026: confirmed operating, address correct, taking reservations.

3. Cibus (Ceglie Messapica)

Set in a charming historic building, Cibus has built a reputation as one of Puglia's premier dining spots. The restaurant emphasises local, seasonal ingredients and traditional recipes. Its wine list celebrates regional vintages. Specialities: Capocollo di Martina Franca, baked ricotta, and orecchiette with turnip tops. Vibe: Rustic yet refined, a must-visit for serious foodies. Address: Via Chianche di Scarano, 7, Ceglie Messapica, BR. Checked August 2026: confirmed operating, address correct, listed in the current MICHELIN Guide selection (no star). Ask to see the cheese cellar cut into the rock beneath the dining room; they show it to anyone who asks.

4. Trabucco da Mimì (Peschici)

Located on a historic trabucco (an old fishing platform), this restaurant offers sea views and the freshest seafood caught daily by local fishermen. The venue preserves the cultural heritage of the Gargano coast. Specialities: Grilled fish, octopus salad, and spaghetti with clams. Vibe: Casual and scenic, perfect for seafood lovers seeking a unique setting. Address: Località Punta San Nicola, Peschici, FG. Checked August 2026: confirmed operating, address correct, and strictly seasonal. The published 2026 season ran 16 June to 13 September, so anyone reading this outside high summer will find it shut. Check before you drive.

5. La Puritate (Gallipoli)

A serene scene of a fisherman in a boat at Gallipoli harbor with a bird flying overhead.
Photo by Vito Giaccari via Pexels

Nestled in Gallipoli's historic centre, this elegant seaside restaurant showcases the region's maritime bounty. Dishes are prepared with meticulous care, emphasising freshness and flavour. Specialities: Linguine with sea urchin, grilled scampi, and seafood risotto. Vibe: Chic yet laid-back, with views out to the sea. Address, corrected: Via Sant'Elia, 18, 73014 Gallipoli, LE. Our 2024 listing said Via Santa Maria della Purità, which is the church the restaurant is named after rather than the street it is on. Price: €46-65 per person, per the Accademia Italiana della Cucina. Checked August 2026: confirmed operating.

6. L'Aratro (Alberobello)

Set in a traditional trullo in the heart of Alberobello, L'Aratro offers dinner inside the region's own architecture. The interior's rustic charm matches the menu's focus on classic regional dishes made with local ingredients. Specialities: Fava bean purée with chicory, lamb stew, and homemade taralli. Vibe: Traditional and cosy, and the most straightforward way to eat inside a trullo without staying in one. Address: Via Monte S. Michele, 25/29, Alberobello, BA. Checked August 2026: confirmed operating, address correct.

7. Pasha (now in Polignano a Mare, formerly Conversano)

Interior of a rustic winery with wooden benches, stone walls, and vintage decor.
Photo by Catherine Franken via Pexels

Housed in a historic palazzo, this Michelin-starred restaurant elevates Puglian cuisine with creative techniques and innovative presentations. Pasha's focus on local ingredients ensures a true taste of the region in every dish. Specialities: Ricciola (amberjack) carpaccio, risotto with prawns, and almond semifreddo. Vibe: Sophisticated and exclusive, perfect for gourmet dining. Moved. Our 2024 listing puts Pasha at Piazza Castello 5 in Conversano. It relocated to the Torre Catena estate at Polignano a Mare in 2025, and the MICHELIN Guide now files it under Polignano. The star came with it and is held in the 2026 guide. We could not confirm the exact street address at the new site, so none is printed here: book through the restaurant directly.

8. Le Lampare al Fortino (Trani)

Situated in a restored 14th-century fort overlooking Trani's harbour, this restaurant combines historic setting with modern cooking. The menu emphasises raw and cooked seafood prepared with creative flair. Specialities: Raw seafood platters, risotto al nero di seppia (squid ink risotto), and grilled prawns. Vibe: Refined and atmospheric, ideal for a special evening. Checked August 2026: confirmed operating, listed in the current MICHELIN Guide selection with no star. We could not corroborate the street address we published in 2024, so it is not repeated here.

9. Antichi Sapori (Montegrosso, Andria)

A trailblazer in the farm-to-table movement, this trattoria serves dishes inspired by Puglian culinary traditions. Ingredients are sourced from the surrounding countryside, ensuring freshness and authenticity. Specialities: Handmade pasta with wild herbs, lamb baked in clay, and olive oil desserts. Vibe: Unpretentious and welcoming, perfect for a true taste of rural Puglia. Address, corrected: Piazza Sant'Isidoro, 10, 76123 Montegrosso, BT. Our 2024 listing said Via Zingarelli 14. Checked August 2026: confirmed operating.

10. Ristorante Porta di Basso (Peschici)

Perched on a cliff in Peschici, this restaurant offers views over the Adriatic alongside a sophisticated seafood menu. The chef combines traditional recipes with modern techniques. Specialities: Tuna tartare, paccheri with shrimp, and pistachio panna cotta. Vibe: Romantic and exclusive, ideal for fine dining by the sea. Checked August 2026: confirmed operating, and worth being precise about: the kitchen lost its Michelin star in the 2026 guide, announced in November 2025. Chef Domenico Cilenti has said publicly that the restaurant carries on unchanged. We could not corroborate the street address, so it is not repeated here.

11. Bina Ristorante di Puglia (Locorotondo, not Savelletri)

This restaurant celebrates the flavours of Puglia with a focus on fresh, seasonal ingredients. Specialities: Burrata with anchovies, seafood crudo, and fresh fish. Vibe: Relaxed yet elegant, ideal for a leisurely meal. Address, corrected: Via Dott. Recchia, 44, Locorotondo, BA. Our 2024 listing had it in Savelletri, in a different province, which is a whole town wrong rather than a wrong street number. Checked August 2026: confirmed operating.

12. Osteria Sant'Anna (Monopoli)

Set in a charming historic building, Osteria Sant'Anna offers a menu of traditional Puglian dishes prepared with care and precision. Specialities: Ciceri e tria (chickpea pasta), stuffed calamari, and almond cake. Vibe: Family-friendly and authentic. Could not confirm, August 2026. We found no osteria of this name currently trading in Monopoli, and the address we published in 2024 now appears to be a bakery. We are leaving the entry here rather than quietly deleting it, but do not plan an evening around it. Verified alternative in the same town: Osteria Perricci, a Monopoli institution a few steps from the old port doing unfussy seafood, or La Locanda sul Porto on the harbour itself. Both were confirmed trading in August 2026, and both are the Monopoli picks in our own Puglia itinerary.

13. Ristorante Alba Chiara (Otranto)

A family-run restaurant near the Otranto seafront, Alba Chiara focuses on fresh, seasonal seafood. The welcoming atmosphere and generous portions made it a favourite among locals and visitors alike. Specialities: Grilled prawns, spaghetti alle vongole (with clams), and seafood risotto. Vibe: Casual and family-friendly, perfect for a laid-back meal by the sea. Could not confirm, August 2026. There are businesses called Alba Chiara in the area, including a hotel restaurant at Torre Sant'Andrea and a B&B on Via Vecchia Alimini, but we could not confirm a restaurant of this name on Lungomare Kennedy. The old address is not repeated here. Verified alternative in the same town: L'Altro Baffo, Via Cenobio Basiliano, 23, Otranto, a contemporary seafood kitchen with reviews as recent as August 2026.

14. Locanda di Nonna Mena (San Vito dei Normanni)

A quaint trattoria with a strong emphasis on Puglian home cooking, Locanda di Nonna Mena serves hearty meals inspired by family recipes. The intimate setting feels like dining in a local's home. Specialities: Polpette di pane (bread dumplings), stuffed courgettes, and orecchiette with broccoli rabe. Vibe: Cosy and authentic, with a focus on traditional flavours. Address, corrected: Via Edison, 30, San Vito dei Normanni, BR. Our 2024 listing said Via Don Quaranta 2. Price: about €35-45 for a full meal. Checked August 2026: confirmed operating, and it has held a Slow Food Osterie d'Italia listing for ten consecutive years, which in this part of Italy is a stronger signal than most.

15. La Barca (Polignano a Mare)

A seafood trattoria near the iconic Lama Monachile beach in Polignano a Mare. La Barca offers simple, flavourful dishes in a welcoming atmosphere. Specialities: Fried calamari, seafood linguine, and grilled catch of the day. Vibe: Casual and affordable, ideal for a post-beach meal. Could not confirm, August 2026. We found no La Barca currently trading in Polignano; the well-known restaurant of that name is in Marina di Pulsano, in Taranto province, which is over an hour away. The old address is not repeated here. Verified alternatives in the same town: entries 17 and 20 on this list, Da Tuccino and Trattoria Il Grottone, both confirmed trading and both within a few minutes of Cala Porto, which is item 5 in our best beaches in Puglia guide.

16. Al Fornello da Ricci (Ceglie Messapica)

A long-starred trattoria known for its elevated takes on Puglian comfort food. This family-run establishment combines creativity with tradition, using only the finest local ingredients. Specialities: Rabbit stew, handmade pasta with truffle, and olive oil gelato. Vibe: Intimate and refined, a must-visit for a fine-dining experience. Address: Contrada Montevicoli, Ceglie Messapica, BR. Checked August 2026: confirmed operating, still run by the Ricci family with Rossella and Antonella Ricci and Vinod Sookar in the kitchen. Its Michelin star is reported by several reliable secondary sources but we could not verify it on the guide's own site, so treat the star as long-standing rather than confirmed for 2026.

17. Da Tuccino (Polignano a Mare)

Renowned for its seafood, Da Tuccino is a destination for those who care about quality and freshness. The dining room looks out over the Adriatic. Specialities: Raw seafood platters, grilled lobster, and spaghetti with sea urchin. Vibe: Sophisticated and upscale, perfect for seafood enthusiasts. Address, corrected: Via Vito Bartolo Centrone, 69/F, Polignano a Mare, BA. The house number we published in 2024 was right, the street name was not. Price: about €100 per person, per Gambero Rosso. Checked August 2026: confirmed operating, booking page live on its own site, listed in the MICHELIN Guide selection with no star.

18. Trattoria Il Borgo Antico (Locorotondo)

Nestled in the town of Locorotondo, this trattoria offers rustic Puglian dishes in a charming setting. It is a good spot to try regional specialities paired with local wines. Specialities: Focaccia, baked lamb, and orecchiette with ricotta forte. Vibe: Cosy and traditional, perfect for a relaxed meal after exploring the town. Could not confirm, August 2026. Nothing under this name turned up in Locorotondo; the Borgo Antico results we found are in other towns. The old address is not repeated here. Verified alternative in the same town: Bina Ristorante di Puglia, Via Dott. Recchia 44, which is entry 11 on this list and is genuinely in Locorotondo.

19. Ristorante Pugliese (Lecce)

Beautiful architecture and vibrant colours in the historic city of Lecce, Apulia, Italy.
Photo by AXP Photography via Pexels

Located in the heart of Lecce, Ristorante Pugliese served a mix of traditional and contemporary dishes drawn from Salento's culinary heritage. Specialities: Fritto misto (mixed fried seafood), orecchiette with tomato and basil, and stuffed aubergine. Vibe: Vibrant and family-friendly, with good service. Could not confirm, August 2026. Searching this name in Lecce returns cuisine-category listings rather than a venue, and we found nothing trading under it on the street we published. The old address is not repeated here. Verified alternative in the same town: La Cucina di Mamma Elvira, Via Ludovico Maremonti, 33, Lecce, doing modern and traditional Salento cooking at €20-40 a head. It books out, so reserve.

20. Ristorante Grottone, now Trattoria Il Grottone (Polignano a Mare)

Tucked away in Polignano a Mare, Il Grottone looks out over the Adriatic with a menu built around the sea. The intimate atmosphere and the quality of the cooking make it a standout in the town. Specialities: Risotto ai frutti di mare (seafood risotto), grilled fish, and homemade desserts. Vibe: Intimate and scenic, ideal for a quiet evening. Renamed. It trades as Trattoria Il Grottone. The street, Via Grottone, is correct; we could not confirm the house number, so it is not repeated here. Checked August 2026: confirmed operating, with a live page and nearly a thousand reviews behind it.

The best restaurants in Puglia with a view (and what to do instead of Grotta Palazzese)

The single most searched restaurant in the region is Grotta Palazzese, and the single most interesting thing about that search is how many people are looking for something like it rather than it. Fair enough: dinner in the cave is a set piece, it is priced like one, and it is booked out for most of the summer.

Here is what else on this page puts you above or beside the water.

  • A cliff-edge dining room: Ristorante Porta di Basso in Peschici, on the Gargano, sits on the cliff rather than in it, and the sea does most of the work.
  • A table on the water itself: Trabucco da Mimì, also in Peschici, is built on a working trabucco, one of the timber fishing platforms that stick out from the Gargano coast. Mid-June to mid-September only.
  • Inside a fortress: Le Lampare al Fortino occupies a restored 14th-century fort on Trani's harbour, which is the most photogenic small harbour in the region and considerably calmer than Polignano.
  • Same town, smaller bill: Trattoria Il Grottone and Da Tuccino are both in Polignano a Mare with Adriatic views. Da Tuccino runs to about €100 a head, so it is not a budget pick, but it is a fraction of the cave.
  • A cave without the sea: if it is the rock you are after rather than the water, Osteria del Tempo Perso in Ostuni and Cibus in Ceglie Messapica are both cut into stone, and both are cooking that people drive across the province for.

One honest note. Grotta Palazzese is genuinely spectacular and genuinely expensive, and the reviews split hard between people who thought the setting justified everything and people who thought the food did not keep up. It is a decision about what you want the evening to be. Book it if the cave is the point; pick from the list above if dinner is.

Four more, from our own place data

These four are not part of the original 20. They come from Stippl's own curated place database for Puglia, where each entry is corroborated against independent sources before it goes in, and they fill the obvious gaps in the list above.

Quintessenza (Trani). Brothers Stefano and Antonio Di Gennaro hold a Michelin star in a small room near Trani harbour, working the Adriatic catch and Murgia produce. It is one of very few starred kitchens in northern Puglia and the only one on this stretch of coast. Book well ahead; the room seats few and the star pulls people from Bari. The cathedral on the water is five minutes away.

Due Camini (Savelletri, inside Borgo Egnazia). Domingo Schingaro's starred dining room runs a menu built strictly on Puglian producers and the estate's own gardens, with a deliberate rule that no ingredient travels further than the region. You do not need to be staying at the resort; it takes outside bookings.

Le Macare (Alezio, near Gallipoli). A country restaurant doing the domestic repertoire of the southern Salento for a room that is almost entirely local: orecchiette con cime di rapa, horse meat in sauce, pittule (small fried dough balls, plain or filled, and a Salento staple you rarely see outside the region). The menu is not translated. Book at weekends, and bring a car, because it is inland from Gallipoli.

Caffè Alvino (Lecce). Not a restaurant, and on the list anyway. It is on Piazza Sant'Oronzo under the baroque facades Lecce is known for, and the pasticciotto here is the regional pastry done properly: eaten warm, standing at the counter, paid for on the way out. Order a caffè leccese with it.

Booking, timing and what a meal actually costs

Book earlier than feels necessary. Travellers planning Puglia with Stippl start about 113 days out, and the starred kitchens and the small family rooms fill on completely different schedules: the first ones weeks ahead, the second ones by midweek for Saturday.

Eating out here is cheap by Italian standards, and the regional wines are cheap at source in a way they are not further north. A trattoria dinner sits comfortably below what the same meal costs on the Amalfi Coast, which is a large part of why people come.

Expect a coperto, the per-person cover charge, on most bills. Tipping is not required; 5% to 10% for genuinely good service is appreciated and nothing more is expected.

Lunch closing is real and long in the inland towns, roughly 1pm to 5pm, and dinner starts later than most visitors expect. Our guide to things to know before travelling to Puglia covers the rhythm of the day properly.

You will need a car. Almost nothing on this list is walkable from anything else on this list. Cibus and Al Fornello da Ricci are in a town of 20,000 people inland; Le Macare is in a village near Gallipoli; the two Gargano entries are two and a half hours north of Bari. Fly into Bari and out of Brindisi, or the reverse, and take the one-way rental.

Carry cash. It is more useful in Puglia's small towns than it is in northern Italy, and some of the best rooms on this page are the least likely to take a card without complaint.

Experience the flavours of Puglia

From the cliffside caves of Polignano a Mare to the rustic trattorias of Locorotondo, these best places to eat in Puglia show off the range of the region's cooking. Whether you are eating seafood on the coast or handmade pasta in a hill town, each meal here comes out of a tradition someone is still working in. Bon appétit.

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Everything else

Frequently asked questions about Italy

For the setting it is Grotta Palazzese in Polignano a Mare, dinner inside a sea cave. For the cooking, the region's Michelin stars are Pasha in Polignano a Mare, Quintessenza in Trani, Due Camini at Borgo Egnazia and Al Fornello da Ricci in Ceglie Messapica. For the most Puglian meal, Antichi Sapori in Montegrosso.

Orecchiette pasta, usually served con cime di rapa with turnip tops, garlic and anchovy. Burrata, which comes from Andria and is eaten within a day. Focaccia barese, thick and topped with tomato and olives. Panzerotti, the fried folded version. Pasticciotto, Salento's warm custard pastry. The wines to drink are Primitivo and Negroamaro.

Ceglie Messapica, for its size. It is an inland town of about 20,000 people in the Valle d'Itria holding two of the region's most serious kitchens, and locals drive there from across the province. For variety, Polignano a Mare has five entries on this page, and Lecce is where you eat cheaply and well.

Grotta Palazzese in Polignano a Mare is inside the cliff. Porta di Basso in Peschici sits on the cliff edge above the Adriatic. Trabucco da Mimì, also in Peschici, is built on a working fishing platform over the water, though it opens only from mid-June to mid-September. Le Lampare al Fortino is inside a 14th-century fort on Trani harbour.

Yes, and earlier than you would expect. The starred kitchens fill weeks ahead in summer, and the small family trattorias fill by midweek for the weekend because local families book them. Travellers planning a Puglia trip with Stippl start about 113 days out, the longest lead time of any Italian destination in our data.

Freshly made beetroot orecchiette pasta drying outdoors in Apulia, Italy.
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