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Catania, Italy
If you land in Catania, your Sicily journey starts and ends in the second
biggest town of Sicily. If you are not planning to spend more than one night in
Catania at the beginning of your trip, I recommend immediately picking up your
rental car at Catania airport (also returning it to the same airport will save a
huge amount on your car rental costs). In case you decide to allocate more time
in Catania and are not planning on driving outside the city, then you can pick
up your car later. I also recommend doing it at the airport as it is cheaper
than in the city. Nonetheless, having limited time in Sicily, I suggest spending
a day in Catania itself for the main sights as there are so many more other
interesting things to see in Sicily.
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Agira, Italy
Initially planned as an overnight spot, Agira turned out to be a picturesque
age-old town perched atop the steep hill (mount Teja). I have to admit, we were
pleasantly surprised to find out that our blindly picked mountain village is
also a very charming medieval settlement boasting panoramic views of Mount Etna.
According to the legend, the village of Agira was founded before the Trojan war
by Greeks in 1194 BC, and was originally called Agyrion, with the name derived
from the violent Sicilian tyrant Agyris. The lively historic town center is
situated around the piazza Francesco Crispi and Parrocchia S. Antonio Da Padova
church. There are numerous churches worth visiting, including two fine Norman
examples, the remains of an Arab-Byzantine fortress and a synagogue, testifying
to the presence of a Jewish population several hundred years ago. A little
further away from the historic center, you can find a neighborhood of the Rocche
di San Pietro which dates back to Arab times in Sicily. Called Arab Quarter, it
is one of the last places in Sicily entirely attributable to Arab art.
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Gangi, Italy
On day 3, we make our way to one of my absolute favorite places in Sicily- a
mysterious Gangi (pronounced “gan-chee”), located in the province of Palermo.
Surrounded by spectacular Madonie mountains and overlooking mount Etna, the
early days of Gangi are tied to the mythical Greek city of Engyon. Named the
most beautiful village in Italy, Gangi dates back to 1200 BC and was founded by
Cretans. It was destroyed during the War of Sicilian Vespers and rebuilt
approximately in the 1300s of this era. This is how we know the Gangi of today.
The town of Gangi raises up in layers of bright color houses glued side to side
like a Lego game. While dozens of narrow cobblestone streets zigzag between the
buildings leading your way up the Marone Mount, which is the base of Gangi.
Gangi is a true hidden gem filled with rich history and charm. Once a ghost
village, selling abandoned homes for 1 EUR, today it seems to slowly come to
life and gain a little bit of attention from a few curious travelers like
myself. At the time of our visit, Gangi was covered in fog. Although the mount
Etna was nowhere to be seen due to the weather, we will forever remember the
mysterious atmosphere of the streets in the clouds.
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Cefalù, Italy
On day 4 we left the misty Madonie mountains in search of sunshine. We headed to
one of the most picturesque seaside towns in North Sicily- Cefalù. Nestled at
the foothills of an imposing rock, and washed by the salty waters of the
Tyrrhenian sea, Cefalù (pronounced shef-a-loo) is an ancient fishing port
featuring a picture-perfect beach set against the old town walls. Today Cefalù
is one of the most popular tourist destinations in Sicily, attracting thousands
of sun-seekers during the summer months. Luckily we were traveling during the
shoulder season, the beginning of May. But even at this time, the main street
Corso Ruggero in the old town of Cefalù was quite busy. Especially at the Piazza
del Duomo. It was packed with hundreds of visitors during the day. Nonetheless,
chilly water and stormy weather kept Spiaggia di Cefalù (Cefalù beach)
completely empty. And since swimming was only for the bravest that day, we opted
to explore the charming backstreets of the old town without the crowds.
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Palermo, Italy
The rough, unpolished, crumbling down, loud and chaotic but undeniably
charismatic Palermo is a complete contrast to everything else I saw in Sicily.
In the capital of Sicily, you can experience authentic unfiltered city life. You
see people hustling to make their living at the doorsteps of the most enchanting
gold-plated churches, and head-spinning palaces. Quite a number of immigrants
from Africa and Bangladesh are calling Palermo their home- something you don’t
find in small towns of Sicily. Wide streets dotted with glorious architecture,
busy markets, billions of bars and street food stalls, dodgy alleyways, beggars,
completely confused tourists, religious ceremonies- there were so many things
going on at the same time in Palermo. Surprisingly, spending a couple of days in
Palermo was like a fresh breather and a curiosity boost after the sleepy
mountain towns and slow-paced fishing villages.
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Castellammare del Golfo, Italy
Named after the seafront castle (Castello Arabo Normanno ) overlooking a large
gulf, Castellammare del Golfo was founded in the 6th century BC Elymians as a
commercial port. The slopping streets and staircases of the Castellammare lead
to the picturesque marina (old harbor) dotted with fishing boats and small fancy
yachts. Seeing so many fishing boats docked around, you can naturally expect to
find some great fresh seafood restaurants. Choices of which are plentiful in
Castellammare. There is no shortage of sandy and pebble beaches in the area of
Castellamare del Golfo. The most accessible is Cala Petrolo beach situated east
of the historical center. I wouldn’t recommend swimming there; it didn’t look
clean and the setup of the massive concrete wall behind was not appealing at
all. Instead, head further east to Spiaggia Playa (around a 20min walk from the
old town)- a long stretch of sandy beach backed by many restaurants and cafes.
Spiaggia Playa is a swimming place loved by locals and gets busy during the peak
summer months. Alternatively, drive 10 minutes West of Castellammare del Golfo
to the wild beaches Cala Bianca or Cala Rosa. You will have to navigate your way
from the main road to one of the hidden turns leading to those pristine beaches.
Head to Belvedere Castellamare del Golfo for scenic views overlooking the town
and stretching as far as Palermo.
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Favignana, Italy
* Beach hopping. The noteworthy ones are Calla Rosa, Calla Azzurra, Spiaggia
Lido di Burrone, and our favorite the unique Bue Marino- an old query turned
beach with impossibly blue waters. * Catch the sunset at Cala Rotonda located on
the western part of the island which was completely wild and scenery wise
reminded me of the Turkish side of Cyprus. * Just do nothing- it is an island to
slow down, sip some aperitivo, coffee, or granita- whatever your preference is.
A perfect place for that is tiny Favignana’s historical center, the Piazza
Europa- one of the two main old town squares (the other one just 50 meters away
is Piazza Madrice). * Try street food- tuna burgers to be specific. Pescheria
Florio at the corner of Piazza Europa is a place to go (we ate there countless
times during our 1.5-day stay). * If you have more time, catch a boat to Levanzo
island and spend a couple of hours there. Marettimo is further away, with fewer
daily connections, and also the wildest out of all 3 islands. You should visit
it if you have more than a night in Fivignana.
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Trapani, Italy
You may wonder if, after seeing a few mountain towns of Madonie, you really need
to see another one. The answer is yes. Erice is absolutely unmissable on your
Sicily trip and it is different from what you may have seen before. Erice is a
well-preserved medieval town, with narrow cobblestone streets winding up and
down, pretty piazzas, churches, castles, and incredible views overlooking
Trapani on one side and Monte Cofano Natural Reserve on the other. Driving the
classic hairpin mountain road, you will find Erice situated 751 meters above sea
level and often covered in its personal cloud. To catch the misty views, and
great light, and to avoid crowds (tour buses start floating in at around 9 am)
aim to come early morning. Also, you can come for an evening stroll with an
opportunity to catch a beautiful sunset. There are quite a few wonderful viewing
points around the whole perimeter of Erice. But one of the best ones opens up
from Gardino del Balio – the garden next to Balio Castle (which is also open for
visitors).
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Ragusa, Italy
This leg of the journey is the longest on our road trip. We will be heading from
Trapani to the baroque gem Ragusa. Along the way, I have included an
off-the-beaten-path stop at Punta Bianca– a rival to the more well-known Scali
dei Tuchi (Turkish Steps) in Agrigento province.
- Casa Del Formaggio Modica
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Syracuse, Italy
The gem of the Eastern part of Sicily is the baroque island of Ortigia (or
Ortygia) – in a lack of a better word-an appendix or an extension of the Greek
town of Syracuse. Pedestrian-friendly Ortigia is renowned for its cultural
heritage with a significant Greek influence. A UNESCO landmark, Ortigia was
inhabited for over 3000 years and plays an important role in shaping the
Mediterranean culture over the centuries. Today, Ortigia attracts many culture
lovers who will have a delightful time exploring its exquisite piazzas with
impressive church facades and suggestive tiny streets. Whitewashed sun-kissed
houses surrounded by crystalline sea and many restaurants are said to serve the
food just as good as the one in Palermo. Moreover, Ortigia is less touristy than
Taormina and more polished than Catania. Meanwhile, mainland Syracuse is the
birthplace of Archimedes (a famous mathematician, philosopher, and inventor)
with Neapolis Archeological Park, home to 5 century BC Greek theater, being an
important historical attraction. While Valley of Temples in Agrigento is the
most significant site showcasing how strong Greek influence was in south-east
Sicily, the ruins of Neapolis in Syracuse come close to second.
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Etna, Italy
Etna – Europe’s most active volcano, constantly keeping inhabitants of the
surrounding villages on edge. You have probably seen pictures of the mighty
volcano spitting lava flames and fuming like a giant dragon. The active volcano
is not something you aim to conquer but you can still take a careful glimpse at
its crater from afar. The highest point you can reach in Etna is 3326 meters
above sea level. You have 3 options to visit Etna: * Self-guided hike (cheapest
but hardest option) starting at the base camp of Rifugio Sapienza at 1910 m
above sea level. Here you can park your car and start a grueling 1416 meters
climb over challenging terrain with very steep inclines. Recommended only for
confident and fit hikers. * Semi-self-guided hike. You can cut off the grind by
taking a cable car from Rifugio Sapienza to 2500 m base (33 EUR per person round
trip), and then a 4×4 bus to 2920m (24 EUR per person round trip). From here you
will only have to hike the crater area. * Guided tour. Apparently, the most
popular way to visit Etna volcano. The prices of guided tours range
significantly. Possibly one of the best deals is this one on Get Your Guide
(only 45 EUR per person, not including cable car cost).
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Taormina, Italy
Taormina is the most famous mountain town in Sicily featuring an imposing Greek
theatre set against the beautiful panorama of the Sicilian coast. It is also the
most touristic town in Eastern Sicily. Although Taormina looks pretty in the
pictures, we had no intention of visiting it on our trip mainly because of it
being overrun by tourists (we experienced over-tourism in Positano, and it was
just not for us). Nonetheless, there is a reason people come to visit certain
places. Undoubtedly Taormina must have its charms and spending a night there
might give you an opportunity to enjoy a beautiful sunset and stroll
tourist-free old town streets during the early morning or late evening hours.
Since you are in the area, it is also worth stopping by Savoca- a tiny hill-top
town famous for the Bar Vitelli, where one of the famous scenes of the Godfather
movie was filmed. Note that the bar itself is heavily overpriced, but if you are
a fan of the film, it is worth having an espresso in this special place which
still keeps the original setup as seen in Godfather.
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Catania, Italy
And that’s a wrap for our Sicilian road trip, sadly… But with a strong feeling
that we will soon be coming back to this gorgeous Mediterranean island of Italy.
I hope you will find this itinerary inspiring and useful when planning your own
Sicily road trip. If you have any questions regarding travelling around Sicily,
do not hesitate to drop me a message. If you loved the article and/or found this
information useful, I would love it if you also join me on Instagram where I
share my travel stories as I go (@theroadreel). Also, please feel free to spread
the word with other fellow travelers who may benefit from this post.