Berat, Albania
Seeing as though we’d missed out on visiting Butrint, we were keen to drop by
the ancient Illyiran city of Apollonia on route to Berat. Although I use the
term ‘drop by’ very loosely, because it was a very long drive down a very bad
road to get there. We didn’t see a single other vehicle after turning off the
SH8 at Levan, and we had the pick of car parking spaces when we arrived. Founded
by the Greeks in 588 B.C, Apollonia was once a significant trading port and
cultural centre for about 50,000 people. However, an earthquake in the third
century A.D caused the city to fall into decline. It was re-discovered in the
early 19th century and first excavated by the French Archeologist Léon Rey
between 1924 and 1938. But, 80 years later, it is estimated that a large chunk
of the site (around 90%) still remains uncovered. What has been uncovered is
pretty impressive though – especially Apollo’s Temple and the Odeon Theatre.
- Castle Park
- National Iconographic Museum "Onufri"
Gjirokaster, Albania
We continued our journey on to Gjirokastër, a city that’s located in a valley
between the Gjerë mountains and the Drino river and is famous for its castle
(one of the largest in the Balkans) and for its UNESCO listed Old Town. We were
staying at the centrally-located Friends Hostel, and we honestly couldn’t have
asked for a nicer welcome on our first day in Albania. We were immediately
treated like friends by our host and his family, and even the resident dog and
cat seemed interested in getting to know us (even if it was purely for the fuss
we gave them). The terrace offers amazing views across the city and up to the
castle and is a lovely sunny spot to enjoy breakfast every morning. Although
there was also a lot of construction work being undertaken in the bazaar area of
Old Town Gjirokastër, and the city’s mosque was almost completely hidden behind
scaffolding, I could see that – without the rubble, the plastic tubing, the
construction vehicles, the holes in the ground and the STOP signs – Gjirokastër
would be (and still was, to a large degree) an absolutely delightful little
city.
- Kalaja e Gjirokastres
- Zekate House