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Tokyo, Japan
Arrive late on Oct 19 — use Oct 20–22 to recover from jet lag with active exploration. Base yourself in Shinjuku or Yanaka (old shitamachi district) for atmospheric street wandering. Vegetarian highlights: seek out 'Nataraj' or 'Ain Soph' restaurants for Japanese-style plant-based kaiseki, and graze Yanaka Ginza shotengai for freshly grilled senbei rice crackers and sesame dango. Optional hike: Takao-san (Mt. Takao, 599m) on Day 2 — a sacred cedar-forested ridge with a Tengu shrine and stunning autumn maples, only 50 min from Shinjuku by Keio line.
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Nikko, Japan
Nikko's cryptomeria cedar avenues and vermillion Tosho-gu shrine complex sit at 600–1,200m elevation — peak koyo typically arrives here in mid-to-late October, making this an ideal first foliage stop. Walk the Kanmangafuchi Abyss trail along the Daiya River canyon where dozens of mossy Jizo statues line a maple-canopied gorge — quintessentially Japanese and unlike anything European. Vegetarian tip: look for 'yuba' (tofu skin) cuisine, a Nikko regional specialty — yuba sashimi, yuba hot pot, and yuba soba with kombu dashi are available at shops near Shinkyo Bridge. Optional plug-and-play: hike the Senjogahara Marshland trail at Okunikko (flat 8km boardwalk through volcanic wetlands rimmed by fiery larches and Mt. Nantai).
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Matsumoto, Japan
Matsumoto sits at 600m in the Azumino valley, ringed by the 3,000m Northern Japan Alps — high-altitude larches above 2,000m will be at peak gold by late October. The crow-black Matsumoto Castle reflected in its moat surrounded by golden ginkgos is one of Japan's most iconic autumn scenes. Shinshu Soba is the regional soul food — buckwheat noodles served cold with kombu-only dashi tsuyu (always confirm vegan dashi); the best shops are along Nakamachi kura warehouse district. Optional plug-and-play: ride the Kamikochi bus from Matsumoto to the glacially carved Azusa River valley (open until Nov 15) — a dramatic 6km flat walk past Taisho Pond with jaw-dropping koyo reflections of the Hotaka massif, utterly unlike European Alps in its volcanic drama.
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Hakuba, Japan
Hakuba's valley sits beneath the Shirouma massif and offers some of Japan's finest high-alpine autumn scenery via gondola and trail — larch forests turn gold against snow-dusted peaks in late October. Stay in a small ryokan in the Hokujo or Wadano area for an intimate onsen experience with mountain views. Vegetarian hiking lunch: carry Oyaki dumplings (pumpkin, nozawana mustard greens, or eggplant-miso fillings) from Matsumoto bakeries — these dense steamed-baked dumplings are the perfect trail food. Optional plug-and-play: ride the Hakuba Goryu gondola to 1,515m then hike the alpine ridge toward Karamatsu-dake through golden larch corridors, or walk the valley floor Matsukawa torrent gorge trail with its waterfall canyon framed by crimson maples.
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Kanazawa, Japan
Kanazawa is Japan's most culturally intact Edo-era city — the samurai Nagamachi district, geisha Higashi Chaya teahouse quarter, and Kenroku-en (one of Japan's three great gardens) are all walkable and stunning in early November koyo. This is your key destination for Shojin Ryori: book a Buddhist vegetarian multi-course dinner at a temple-affiliated restaurant — Kanazawa's Zen temple network in Teramachi district is the place to look. Street food alert on Omicho market periphery: fresh-roasted kurigohan (chestnut rice) vendors, sesame tofu, and kaga-yasai (traditional Kaga vegetable) pickles. Optional plug-and-play: half-day trip to Yamanaka Onsen (40 min by bus) — a gorgeous river gorge ryokan village with a dramatic maple canyon walk along the Kakusenkei gorge trail, then soak in the famous communal Kikuno-yu bath.
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Kyoto, Japan
Kyoto is the emotional heart of the trip — November 7–11 is ideal timing as lower-altitude temple gardens (Tofuku-ji, Eikan-do, Rurikoin) begin their peak koyo, which runs Nov 15–25. Spend mornings at lesser-visited moss temples like Jojakko-ji in Sagano or Enkoji in Ichijoji before crowds arrive, and afternoons navigating Philosopher's Path when dappled maple light hits the canal. Kyoto is Japan's best city for strict vegetarians: Shigetsu restaurant inside Tenryu-ji offers a full set-menu Shojin Ryori lunch (book ahead); tofu cuisine restaurants along Nanzen-ji are excellent; and the vegan-friendly izakaya scene in Pontocho has grown considerably. Optional plug-and-play A (active): trek the Fushimi-Momoyama to Fushimi Inari ridge trail above the famous torii gates at dawn for volcanic hillside forest — far less crowded than the main path. Optional plug-and-play B (cultural): cycle the Sagano bamboo and rural temple loop (Arashiyama → Jojakko-ji → Nison-in → Takiguchi-dera → Adashino Nenbutsu-ji hidden stone Buddha grove).
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Nara, Japan
Nara in early-to-mid November offers kasugayama primeval forest koyo behind the great Buddha Hall — this UNESCO-listed ancient forest of cedar and oak has never been logged and feels genuinely primordial. The free-roaming sacred deer of Nara Park drifting through crimson maple groves is one of Japan's most surreal and distinctly Japanese wildlife experiences. Vegetarian eating is surprisingly easy: Nakatanido mochi shop on Higashimuki arcade does fresh-pounded yomogi (mugwort) daifuku mochi; Buddhist vegetarian sets are available at restaurants near Toshodai-ji and Yakushi-ji. Optional plug-and-play: hike the ancient Yamanobe-no-Michi pilgrimage trail (Japan's oldest road, flat 8km through persimmon orchards and stone shrines between Miwa and Tenri) for a countryside koyo experience far from tourist crowds.
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Osaka, Japan
End the trip in Osaka for urban energy, street food grazing, and easy airport access — Minoh Park (30 min from Umeda by Hankyu line) offers a spectacular 2.8km maple canyon walk to a waterfall, one of the Kansai region's finest koyo spots and an easy half-day adventure. Dotonbori and Kuromon market are the sensory climax of the journey; vegetarian street finds include Osaka-style konnyaku skewers, sweet potato daigaku-imo stalls, fresh-grilled corn, and takoyaki shops that now often offer konnyaku-ball versions. Final splurge dinner: book a counter-seat kaiseki at a tofu specialty restaurant in Kitashinchi for a quietly elegant close to the journey before your early morning Nov 14 departure.